This summer, I have fielded an unusual high number of questions from concerned gardeners wondering why their tomatoes are cracking or splitting. The answer is quite simple, is an environmental condition, not a dreaded disease or insect. There are two common types of cracking or splitting, radial (vertical) and concentric (circular).
Radial cracks, also known as vertical cracks, are dark splits going down the side of the fruit, normally starting at the stem. Radial cracks are more serious type of cracks. Concentric cracking occurs in a circular or crescent pattern at the top of the fruit, which appear as rings around the stem end (see picture). The cracks vary in depth from surface lesions to deep splits. If the fruit is still green when cracking occurs, fruits are likely to rot before they fully ripen if left on the plant.
To answer the question, “why is my tomato cracking,” we need to observe what is happening in the environment which causes the fruit to exhibit this problem. Both radial (vertical) and concentric (circular) cracks are called “growth cracks.” These cracks occur because the fruit underwent a rapid growth stage, basically growing so fast it begins to split open. It often occurs as tomatoes begin to ripen, but green fruit can be affected as well. Heavy rain, especially when preceded by dry weather, is the leading cause of fruit cracking and splitting in tomatoes. Cracking and splitting occur when rapid changes in soil moisture levels cause fruits to expand quicker than the tomato skin can grow
If high humidity weather is taking place at the time growth cracks occur, the damaged opened-wounds in the fruit allows fruit-rotting organisms to invade. Fruit which develops soft, black, rotted areas can quickly decay. The best option for home gardeners is to harvest the fruits immediately before they begin to rot. The fruit is still edible and can be allowed to finish ripening indoors. However, any fruit that develops a sour smell or begins to ooze should go straight to the trash, or more preferably, a compost pile. Tomatoes that ripen off the vine, as well as those that ripen on the vine during cloudy, rainy weather will be less flavorful than those that fully mature on the plant during sunny weather.
Again, “growth cracks” are an environmental or physiological problem, not a disease or insect. Pesticides (fungicides or insecticides) will have no impact on correcting this problem. The most important thing home gardeners can do to minimize fruit cracking is to maintain even soil moisture levels by watering during dry periods. Most vegetables need about an inch of water per week to remain productive. Soaker hose and drip irrigation systems are great ways to provide this water directly to the soil and plant roots. Mulching your vegetable garden will also help keep the soil evenly moist and minimize moisture related problems.
Marcus McCartney is the OSU Extension Agriculture and Natural Resources Educator for Washington County. He has been with Extension since 2014. Marcus received both his bachelor’s and master’s degrees from West Virginia University
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